After 18 months planning, an advanced scouting trip in 2018, and our local guides running a version of our Lesser Sundas Tour with another client in October 2018, we were excited to touch down in Bali for 18 days of birding on the Indonesian Archipelago. As with any long tour, in a remote part of the world, things didn’t always go as planned, but overall things went rather smoothly and the tour was quite successful.
Sumba Hornbill at its nest cavity
During our time in the country, we tallied 292 species of birds on the current Clements list. Additionally, we encountered at least 19 other subspecies and or undescribed forms not currently recognized by Clements that will likely be split at some point in the near future (Rote and Timor Boobook, Mutis Parrotfinch, Timor Nightjar, Timor, Flores, and Sumba Flowerpecker, etc.).
But the juiciest tidbit and the entire reason for going to the Lesser Sundas is for the endemics--and endemic-wise, this tour was a success! On the Lesser Sundas, we tallied
79 Lesser Sunda endemics--the vast majority of the expected 85 species! Add in the 21 Java and Bali endemics found on Bali, we ended up with 100 species of endemics from Nusa Tenggara!
We tallied a whopping 140 Indonesian endemic or near-endemic species in all, meaning that 48% off all the birds we saw are only found in Indonesia!
On Sumba, we found all 17 possible endemics, with good looks at 16 (see flighty Sumba Buttonquail below), and were only on the island for roughly 48 hours--a pretty good turnaround. A
Sumba Hornbill feeding its mate in a nest cavity, a female
Eclectus Parrot guarding her nest, a pair of cooperative
Sumba Boobook, and a very obliging
Red-naped Fruit-Dove highlighted our day at Billa Forest on the island. While a last-ditch effort for
Sumba Myzomela paid off, and a flighty
Sumba Buttonquail punctuated the quick stop here.
Sumba Myzomela at the 11th hour
On Rote, we found all 4 recognized island endemics with ease:
Rote Boobook,
Rote Myzomela,
Rote Fantail, and
Rote Leaf Warbler. Additionally, we located both the
Timor Blue Flycatcher and
Timor Stubtail which potentially may be recognized as distinct species in the future (among a number of other possible splits. We also had great looks at a number of Timor specialists here like
Timor Oriole,
Red-chested Flowerpecker, and
Green Figbird.
Poor record shot of the Magpie Goose at Sotimori
A major highlight here came during our only full day on the island where numerous Australian water birds were using Lake Sotimori. Amongst the
Australian Pelicans,
Royal Spoonbills,
Wandering Whistling-Ducks, and
Hardheads we found the Lesser Sundas apparent
1st record of Magpie Goose.
Outside of the West Papau where the birds aren't entirely uncommon in the southeast, this bird is accidental in Indonesia. The only other vagrant sighting I found in eBird was from the Tanimbar Islands on Yamdena in November 2017 when one Magpie Goose was seen over the course of a week at Saumlaki Airport Lake.
And in Eaton's
Birds of the Indonesian Archipelago, he mentions just a single sighting from Banda in 1988--making this the 3rd verified sighting for the archipelago.
There was one other interesting report I came across from a point in the middle of the Timor Sea about halfway between Timor and Australia--apparently in the Jabiru Oil Field. During the week of July 15-19, 1991, Raymond Nojek reported 4 groups of 4-5 birds traveling east. The report came from the Jabiru Venture Floating Production Storage and Offloading ship stationed here. This oil field has since been decommissioned, but the sighting is quite interesting. The timing is outside of the cyclone season and seemingly makes no sense with any type of migration, post-breeding dispersal, etc.
Rote Boobook past the end of the road on Rote
The hardest birding of the trip came on Timor--as was expected. We had several misses here, but they were somewhat expected in the rare and decreasing Timor Imperial Pigeon, and we did not discover the first Timor Green Pigeons in West Timor in more than 2 decades. We also missed Timor Spangled Drongo which was somewhat of a surprise. Otherwise, we picked up 31 island endemics here including the mythical and still yet described
Mount Mutis Parrotfinch, only known from a handful of sites on and around Mount Mutis. We had great looks at the
Tricolored Parrotfinch, and every other bird with the word Timor in its name. A surprise
Channel-billed Cuckoo made a brief appearance in the mangroves near Kupang (according to our local guide, this was a sign of rains to follow)--and a
Great Frigatebird flew by while we ate lunch on our last day in Kupang.
Timor Cuckoo-Dove on our final morning on Timor
Flores proved to be more difficult this year than expected, with several expected birds proving hard to find. We missed 3 species here--and they were tough ones to swallow with the declining Flores Green Pigeon, and roaming Wallace’s Hanging-Parrot and the majestic Flores Hawk-Eagle.
Flores Crow was heard only, and
Mees’s Nightjar only provided flyby looks in the spotlight. 25 Endemics were heard and seen in all, and two members of our party ticked off their last Asian Kingfisher species with
White-rumped Kingfisher on our 1st morning touring here. A memorable morning listening to
Bare-throated Whistlers and coaxing out
Flores Shortwing,
Flores Leaf Warbler, and
Pygmy Cupwing was punctuated in the evening by the calls of several
Flores Scops-Owl, which proved difficult for good looks this year.
The incredible songster--Bare-throated Whistler on FLores
As expected the boat trip to Komodo National Park was a highlight not just for the dragons, but the birds here as well. The endemic
Yellow-crested Cockatoo showed nicely at a nest site, while
Green Junglefowl,
Orange-footed Scrubfowl, and
Wallacean Drongo all cooperated quite nicely. Here at the end of the dry season, the island was extremely dry, and hordes of
Barred Doves visited the lone remaining man-made waterhole. From the boat, we had great looks at
White-bellied Sea-Eagle,
Great-billed Heron,
Lesser Crested Tern, and a number of
Lesser Frigatebirds.
The unforgettable Komodo Dragon
We wrapped up our tour on Bali, where comfortable accommodations, delicious food, and easy birding made for a memorable end to our tour. Another 21 endemics were picked up here over our final days. In the highlands,
Javan Whistling-Thrush,
Flame-throated Barbet,
Sunda Warbler, and
Javan Flowerpecker were all added. And we wrapped things up in West Bali National Park with unforgettable encounters with
Javan Banded Pitta,
Bali Myna, and
Sunda Scops Owl.
The Javan Banded Pitta was a great wrap on the tour
On our final morning, while several of us relaxed in the swimming pool of our hotel, a
Black-thighed Falconet paid us a visit, giving the group one more bird before the trip concluded.
Poolside Black-thighed Falconet on our final morning
None of this would have been possible without the immense help from Bali Birding Tour and our local guides Heri (Sumba), Martin (Timor), and Samuel (Flores). Local knowledge is key to successful tours in this part of the world, and our 3 local guides provided immense logistical support, as well as up-to-date information on key species. If you are interested in joining us on a future tour to the Lesser Sundas, we plan on going back in 2021!
Check out more than 600 photos from this tour on our Flickr Page:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mwbirdco/albums/72157713471968733
The photos are also split out island-by-island for easy perusal...
Sumba Bird Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mwbirdco/albums/72157713470929736
Rote Bird Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mwbirdco/albums/72157713472953363
Timor Bird Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mwbirdco/albums/72157713473944588
Flores Bird Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mwbirdco/albums/72157713474262708
Komodo Bird Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mwbirdco/albums/72157713473655236
Bali Bird Photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mwbirdco/albums/72157713471968723
And we will be writing up (and sharing here) our detailed trip report in our annual "Field Notes" report later this spring.
Labels: Asia, Bali, endemics, Flores, Indonesia, island, Lesser Sundas, Rote, Sumba, Timor, tours
September 9 to 11, 2018
The thrill of seeing any Pitta, but especially the gorgeous Javan Banded Pitta!
If you were dropped off in West Bali without having been anywhere on the east end of the island, you might think you were in a different country. The rainforest that covers most of the island is still visible from the west, but the entire area of West Bali National Park (Bali Barat) is Monsoon forest, and during the dry season you could mistake it for some place in Krueger National Park, South Africa. Large acacia trees loom over the forest below, which during our visit consisted of many trees void of leaves. It made for easy birding, but quite a surprise for what I expected.
The dry monsoon forest at West Bali National Park
Before dawn on Septemeber 9, I left our room at The Menjangan Hotel, which is situated in the National Park. It was an amazing location to stay--with both the standard rooms and the private beach villas being top-notch accommodations. While the prices were definitely western, the location was 100% wild and well worth every penny.
Our Beach Villa at the Menjangan
I'd hoped to come across another
SUNDA SCOPS-OWL, and with all the open branches the chance for a clear shot seemed good. And there were several owls calling as I wandered down a road in the dark. But try as I might, none would come in any closer than a few trees away. As I wandered down the road, a car approached, then slowed with the window down. A voice from inside, "Tim?". I replied yes--it was Hery, my guide, and his driver. They were on their way to my room to get me.
I jumped in the car and we set off down the road. The plan was to try for owls before the sun came up and I wouldn't argue against trying some more. We stopped where Hery thought we'd have some luck and got out--it was starting to get light and an owl called in the distance--but I heard a loud "toe-kay" call from the barn behind us--I asked if that was a
TOKAY GECKO, and he said it was--so I asked if we could refocus on finding that--and we did. Hery made quick work, spotting the stunning lizard in the rafters.
The incredible looking Tokay Gecko
We hopped back in the car and headed down the road when Hery called out PITTA! There in the road right in front of the car was a
JAVAN BANDED PITTA--my #1 target for Bali. I anxiously asked about getting a picture, to which Hery replied, "oh, we'll get you good pictures in a little bit." I was nervous about that proposition since I'd heard this before on other trips, but decided to trust the process. We continued toward a canopy tower that would be our perch for the first hour of daylight, as we watched and listened to the jungle come alive.
The View from the Canopy Tower
From the tower the view was incredible, and Hery explained that we would get mynas and starlings here. As if prompted by his word, a pair of
BALI MYNA flew in and landed in a tree next to the tower. My 2nd most wanted species for Bali, and not in a cage at a zoo!
My lifer Bali Myna
We would end up seeing more than a dozen, and everytime one flew by or called I got just as excited at those first two. The national park we were standing in was created in order to help save this species. There were an estimated 350 birds in the West Bali National Park in the 1980s. During the 1990s over 400 cage-bred birds were released into the park to increase their numbers. But by 2005, the park authorities estimated the number to have fallen to less than 10. This decline was caused primarily by poachers responding to the lucrative demand for rare birds in the caged bird market. Today estimates range from 100 to several hundred individuals in the park, where they seem to be again making a resurgence.
Bali, like most of Southeast Asia, struggles with the illegal cage-bird trade. In fact, during our time on the island, I saw 100's of cages species of dozens of species--including birds from neighboring islands--and critically endangered species. From the tower here, we observed two other species that have taken a major hit from this trade--the first being the
JAVAN MYNA, which flew by in several small flocks is much more widespread than its Balinese counterpart.
A flyby flock of Javan Myna
The other species, may not be as fortunate as the previous species. The park is home to a small population--of what is believed to be the only remaining wild
BLACK-WINGED STARLINGS in the world--with perhaps as few as 50 birds remaining. This species is one of the most popular species among collectors, making it a prime target, and leading to an 80% reduction in population in just the last decade. Hery spotted one singing from a perch in the distance, and I admired it through the scope. This species might not make it through this decade, but Hery was optimistic that the park, may be the key to its survival, just like the Bali Myna.
1 of less than 50 wild Black-winged Starlings on the planet
There was a fair amount of activity to keep us busy. Most of this consisted of various green pigeons, doves, and swiftlets. A super confiding
ISLAND COLLARED-DOVE landed in the morning light right at eye level in the canopy and posed perfectly for pictures before moving back to the jungle floor.
Picture-perfect Island Collared-Dove
We left the tower to look for birds closer to the ground and made our way through the forest, eventually stopping when Hery heard a
CHANGEABLE HAWK-EAGLE calling in the forest somewhere. He opted for us to walk the road and look for other birds while we got closer to the raptor. This proved fruitful with a
COPPERSMITH BARBET flying into a nearby tree and calling up a storm.
A Coppersmith Barbet posing in the tree tops
Around the same time, a high pitched chirp caught our attention as a
YELLOW-THROATED HANGING-PARROT came zipping past and landing in an enormous tree. After a few minutes of searching, we tracked down the gorgeous little green creature and watched it for several minutes while it preened and took in the warm morning light.
One of the best shots I've seen of a Yellow-throated Hanging Parrot
Our walk had brought us closer to the hawk-eagle, but still no view--then all of the sudden through the trees, the huge raptor made a swooping pass overhead. It banked and headed away from us, gone as quickly as we had seen it.
The shot I managed of the Changeable Hawk-Eagle
We continued towards the Menjangan beach where we picked up a
BAR-WINGED PRINIA foraging on the ground. My family would spend a night in the beach villas later, and the prinia were a common sight here. I also got my first look at a Black Giant Squirrel, but the lighting kept me from getting any nice pictures.
A very confiding Bar-winged Prinia
We headed out of the park on our way to some salt pans to the northeast to look for shorebirds. But we didn't make it far before Hery spotted a secretive and often hard to find
MANGROVE WHISTLER low in some brushes. This drab gray bird isn't much for looking at, but apparently, it can be quite difficult to see as well as we did.
The rather inconspicuous Mangrove Whistler
Leaving the park proved more difficult than expected as we kept spotting birds--it wasn't more than 5 minutes later when Hery with his magic picked out another
JAVAN BANDED PITTA in some extremely dense understory. I wasn't risking waiting for a shot, and took a record shot just in case I didn't see another (which as you know by the first image in this post shouldn't have been a concern...).
What I thought would be my best look at a Javan Banded Pitta
Onward, we stopped again when I spotted a minibus with two familiar faces--Sam, and Cam were on their way to breakfast at the beach and I had to wave hello. We eventually made it on to the highway and sped towards the salt pans at Pejarakan. It's not a far drive, but once you leave pavement again, the travel slows to a crawl on a horrendous back road. As we made our way towards the water, I spotted a
LONG-TAILED SHRIKE in a nearby field which posed nicely.
A very striking Long-tailed Shrike
As soon as we got to the pans I spotted a
JAVAN PLOVER--the first target bird. This was followed quickly by a
PIED STILT and another Javan Plover. There weren't a lot of shorebirds in the pans, but the birds we were seeing were targets!
Javan Plover running along a dike
Pied Stilt feeding in a salt pan
We continued when I spotted a flash of bright blue flying low over a canal--it landed on a nearby post and was a stunning
SMALL BLUE KINGFISHER. This one provided much better looks than the previous ones in Nusa Dua.
Small Blue Kingfisher and it's unbelievable color
There wasn't much else in the way of new birds as we made our way to the beach on the north end of the ponds. As we got to the last ponds this changed drastically as we found all the shorebirds. There were
COMMON REDSHANK, CURLEW SANDPIPER, and
RED-NECKED STINTS. There were
GREATER and
LESSER SAND-PLOVER. There were
RUDDY TURNSTONE, BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER, PACIFIC GOLDEN-PLOVER, and
GRAY-TAILED TATTLER. And everything was close enough to get decent photos.
Common Redhsank
Red-necked Stint
L to R: Greater Sand-Plover and Lesser Sand-Plover
L to R: Ruddy Turnstone, Gray-tailed Tattler, Pacific Golden-Plover, Greater Sand-Plover, Ruddy Turnstone, and Black-bellied Plover
A small flock or Gray-tailed Tattler
We took a short walk along the outside dike and canal to a brackish cove where a small flock of
SUNDA TEAL were sitting. I was able to get a few shots before they took off, along with dozens of
WHIMBREL and a single
BAR-TAILED GODWIT. We scanned the beaches hoping to find a thick-knee, but today wasn't our day.
Looking west to Java on the shoreline
Sunda Teal in flight
Before leaving the pans we made a quick scan down another stretch of beach where Hery though we might find a
MALAYSIAN PLOVER. And he was right as we quickly picked one out of the camouflaged surroundings.
Malaysian Plover on a coral and shell beach
Leaving the pans we had missed one bird that I had seen but hope for photos of and Hery was fairly certain we would find one--as we approached the last turn out, I spotted a
SACRED KINGFISHER sitting right next to the road for killer shots. It looks very similar to the larger and more common Collared Kingfisher, but has buffy underparts, and flies very fast like a smaller kingfisher. We lucked out, and left the pans with everything except the thick-knee!
A dleightfully cooperative Sacred Kingfisher
Back on the highway, Hery told me that it was time for pittas. And I was thrilled. I won't delve too much into the details of where we went or how we go there--only to say that you wouldn't know it existed if someone didn't lead you there. We were dropped off on a small road and met by "The Pitta Man" at a nondescript opening in the forest. We followed him into a clearing and across a small field where we entered another patch of forest and a small man-made hide with several notched out viewports. Here "The Pitta Man" set up a large log and we waited while he whistled the call of a pitta. Immediately a
HORSFIELD'S BABBLER landed on the log.
Horsfield's Babbler posing for a nice shot
Then Hery whispered, "a male pitta about 10' behind and to the right--it's coming!". And within 15 seconds, there atop the log was the male
JAVAN BANDED PITTA. I'll let the pictures tell the story.
A male Javan Banded Pitta in a variety of poses
It was incredible watching the pitta so close. The colorful bird was mesmerizing and I never imagined getting the looks we were getting. The male jumped off the log and wandered back into the forest, only to be replaced by the female bird who hopped on the log and repeated the same show that had just played out with the male bird.
A female Javan Banded Pitta in a variety of poses
I couldn't have been more thrilled. Once the female left it was hive fives, and reveling at the moment. I won't share any more about this experience, only to say, if you want to see Javan Banded Pitta, get in touch with Hery--you won't regret it!
One last close-up of the star of the Bali Birding Trip, a Javan Banded Pitta
Before we left Hery heard a
CRESTED SERPENT-EAGLE call, and almost immediately the bird flew out of the trees and overhead. I snapped a few shots, but my camera settings were still trained for pittas, and I wasn't able to get things switched until the bird had already made a pass and was starting to leave.
Flyover Crested Serpent-Eagle
We hit the road again and headed inland away from the park towards the rainforest on the hills above. The scenery changed quickly to dense greenery and humid forest. We slowed down and approached a bridge, Hery explained that a Javan Kingfisher often sat on a dead tree here. As we made our way onto the bridge I could tell something was wrong. Hery told me the tree that was there had been torn down in the past week--the perch for the bird was gone! We turned around and pulled on a small side road and started scanning the power lines and trees. It wasn't even 5 minutes when I spotted a bird gliding in and landing along the main road on a power line--it was the
JAVAN KINGFISHER. It dove into a garden with a number of short palms, so we slowly drove towards it. Hery spotted it sitting only 15' off the road and we got killer looks and photos!
An increidbly colorful Javan Kingfisher
As we left Hery shared with me that most people that try for this bird will try to approach on foot and that using the car is the best way to get close--it worked today!
We kept going into the Blimbingsari Rainforest to look for a couple more target birds. As we drove Hery's magic ears picked up a
BLACK-NAPED MONARCH calling form the forest. We pulled over and within a few minutes had a pair right next to the road posing for pictures.
Black-naped Monarch are a phenomenal bird
After the monarchs disappeared we got out of the car--there were
FRECKLE-BREASTED WOODPECKER calling and drumming nearby and we wanted to try and find them. We had a couple flyovers, but no good looks. Then a
COMMON FLAMEBACK burst into call, but again it proved difficult to see, staying in the forest. As this was happening a
LITTLE SPIDERHUNTER started to call and work its way closer to us--I'm not sure I've ever seen a bird fly so fast, as it got close then zipped across the road and continued on its way out of sight in less than a second. Rainforest birding at its finest.
The Blimbingsari Rainforest
Trying to keep on schedule, we headed deeper into the forest by car, with our driver spotting a
HAIR-CRESTED DRONGO flying past--it would be the only one of the trip.
The only Hair-crested Drongo of the trip
As we neared the end of the road we got out when Hery heard a
LITTLE BARBET calling. Pretty soon we found 2 sitting high in nearby trees. Of the barbets we'd seen in Bali, these ones have the most brilliant colors, but their small size and ability to hide high in trees can make the views a little less impressive.
A Little Barbet high above us in the trees
None-the-less it was another lifer and target bird off the list. We spent the better part of the next 40 minutes trying to track down a singing
RUBY-THROATED BULBUL. There were around 3 dozen bulbuls of 4 species visiting fruiting trees here, but the Ruby-throated which is one of the most sought-after refused to show itself. The same would go for an
ORIENTAL PIED-HORNBILL that was calling up a storm from a large fruiting tree as we left. In consolation, I got a decent look at a
DOLLARBIRD and a distant photo of a
CHESTNUT-HEADED BEE-EATER.
Chestnut-headed Bee-Eater calling
It had been a stellar morning and we were pushing a late lunch so we made our way back towards the highway to grab something to eat. But as with the morning, we didn't make it far, when Hery spotted a
GRAY-RUMPED TREESWIFT flying over a neighborhood. We got out of the vehicle so I could get a few photos of this phenomenal bird. I had hoped to see one perched, but the flight shots would have to suffice.
Gray-rumped Treeswift making a pass overhead
As we watched I spotted another top target of mine--a
WHITE-BREASTED WOODSWALLOW had joined the feeding frenzy and was now making loops overhead. It was a two-for-one with top targets in a manner of minutes.
Stopping for the treeswift provided a look at this White-breasted Woodswallow
The treeswifts would be the only ones of the trip, and I wouldn't see another woodswallow until our last day in Komodo National Park a week later and without a camera. It was a lucky find and a nice end to the morning birding. We headed towards the town of Gilimanuk and grabbed lunch at the Luvi Resto (Cafe and Restaurant). Really good local cuisine, and very inexpensive. We had some fried tofu rolls, and I ate crispy duck which I dipped in the chili sauce. As we ate a
JAVAN KINGFISHER burst into call just out of sight in the forest behind the restaurant--and to think we could have just spent an hour at the restaurant eating and looking for the kingfisher :)
After our quick break, we headed out to look for a handful of pigeons and doves I still needed--among other things. Our first stop led us to Pura Tirtha Segara Rupek--a Hindu temple where Hery knew there would be
BLACK-NAPED FRUIT-DOVE. As luck would have it, another guide with several clients we'd ran into a couple times earlier in the day were there and looking for it. They had seen it before we got there, but were currently trying to refind it. I spotted a flash of yellow and red high in the tree and realized this was the super colorful bird we were looking for.
Still can't believe the colors on this Black-naped Fruit-Dove
By-and-far the coolest dove I have seen to date. There are some very cool doves in the world, and my limited interaction with fruit doves and green pigeons meant my list of "cool ones" was short. We watched the bird for a few minutes before wandering off to another spot on the temple grounds. Hery told me there were some green-pigeons here as well, and that most guides that visit this spot don't leave the parking lot, so they were unaware of the roost. We walked a short distance, came around the corner of a building and there in a large fruiting tree were a handful of
GRAY-CHEEKED PIGEON.
The subtle and stunning colors on the eyering and wings of the Gray-cheeked Pigeon
A very stunning green-pigeon, with a neon green eye-ring and primary edges as well as marron coverts. The birds spooked and took off--but what I hadn't seen is that the 10-12 birds I spotted were just a fraction of the more than 50 that took to the air--the tree had been full of pigeons!
We headed to another site nearby to see if we could track down a Rufous-backed Dwarf-Kingfisher--one of the prettiest kingfishers in Bali. We didn't have any luck with this bird but a consolation prize was a troupe of
JAVAN LUTUNG, an Old World monkey from the Colobinae subfamily. These monkeys are endemic to Java, with a few subpopulations on surrounding islands--like Bali, where this species is restricted to West Bali National Park. This lutung is listed as vulnerable by the International Union for Conservation--a vulnerable species is one which is likely to become endangered unless the circumstances that are threatening its survival and reproduction improve.
Killer looks at a Javan Lutung
Heading into Gilimanuk, we visited the harbor. If we had wanted to go to Java, we could have hopped on a boat and been there in under an hour--but I'll leave that for a future trip. Instead with tide low, we scanned the tidal flats and found a half dozen
LESSER ADJUTANTS--a type of stork that is widespread in southeast Asia. Unfortunately, I was only able to digiscope these birds at a distance as they stayed in the wildest part of the bay.
Very distant record shot of a Lesser Adjutant
A
SOOTY-HEADED BULBUL posed briefly in the trees along the street where we parked before we left. This provided a much better shot than my previous one at Sebatu!
Much better shot of a Sooty-headed Bulbul than my previous
Our time was getting short, and Hery like a champ had planned the day almost down to the minute. We drove back towards The Menjangan, abruptly pulling off the highway down a two-track into a pasture.
The "savanna" outside Gilimanuk
As we drove,
BLUE-TAILED BEE-EATER appeared on the ground nearby. First one, then two, then 10. I counted 14, which was probably fewer than were actually there. They perched on every high point on the ground--even if that high point was a pile of cow dung.
A vividly colorful Blue-tailed Bee-Eater perched on cow poop
Of the 5 species of bee-eater I had seen in my life, this was the closest I had been to one, and the lighting made for incredible photos--even with the poop perches.
A pair of Blue-tailed Bee-Eaters
I had already seen this bee-eater a couple times on this trip, but was thrilled for the better views--but we had to keep going as there was another target we were here for. We crept along and I spotted some
ZEBRA DOVES ridiculously close to the car. We stopped for photos since the light was still great.
Frame-filling shot of a Zebra Dove
We finally reached a dead end, and Hery had us exit the vehicle. He walked a few feet and pointed at a line of mangroves and said to look at the dirt patch at the base. There sitting in the shade was a
SAVANNA NIGHTJAR.
A very cryptic Savanna Nightjar
Another target bird successfully tracked down, Hery thought we would have luck with Rufous-backed Dwarf-Kingfisher at one more stop so we sped off towards the location. another non-descript trail into the jungle, the driver dropped us off, and we wandered into the trees. But, it looked like this was going to be the one that got away today. We tried unsuccessfully for about 15 minutes to track down this tiny kingfisher, that prefers the dry forest over wetter areas. Instead, I got a crappy record shot of a
SMALL MINIVET, and a backlit shot of a
DOLLARBIRD.
Poor but identifiable shot of a Small Minivet
I had thought Dollarbirds would be more common and was surprised that I only saw 2 during my entire time in Indonesia--both this day in West Bali. One thing that never ceases to amaze me is the perception of reality from afar, versus reality in the field. Books and online reference to birds can paint a very different picture from reality and things that you expect to be quite hard to find and see, may, in reality, be easy to find--just very localized. And things you expect to be widespread might be widespread--but very uncommon. The joys of birding!
My silhouetted shot of one of the two Dollarbird I saw in Bali
With time for one more stop, Hery thought we might be able to track down one final target bird. He was unsure if the bird would be there since he hadn't checked in a while, but he knew of a single tree where
RED-BREASTED PARAKEET are often found. So we set off to try. Parking along the highway, we hiked across a field to a single enormous tree. And there, calling in said tree were the parakeets. One bird took flight, giving a short glimpse at the bird as it flew directly away from us. It wasn't the greatest look, but it was a lifer, and better than no parakeet!
I hope at some point in the future I get better looks at this species, which is really a phenomenal looking parakeet! And with that, our day was finished. We had tallied more than 90 species, of which 39 were lifers. The list also included 10 of the top 20 species I hoped to see in Bali, with the Bali Myna and Javan Banded Pitta at the top of the list see well, and in greater than expected numbers. It was an amazing day of birding.
Back at The Menjangan, we parted ways--my biggest regret for this trip was not asking more questions and finding out that Hery doesn't just guide in Bali, but all over Indonesia. Given the experience I had in West Bali, I wish I would have had him for a day in the interior of Bali, as well as in Flores where we were headed next. Hery is an exceptional guide. He knows where the most sought-after target species in Bali are found, and how to find them. His ability to suss things out and provide high-quality views is top notch.
I found Hery by doing a little online sleuthing--his name popped up on several websites, as well as checklists specific to West Bali NP. And don't let eBird fool you with the Top 100--Hery has seen more than 300 species on Bali, he is without a doubt the premier guide on the island, and I really enjoyed birding with him. I reached out to him via an email address I found on one of the sites and it all worked out. Your best bet to get a hold of Hery might be through Facebook at the Bali Birding Tour page:
https://www.facebook.com/balibirdingtour/
Common Iora was the last bird I photographed in Bali
Sam, Cam, and I spent another day at The Menjangan, living large in a beach villa, and snorkeling with Moorish Idols and various parrotfish.
Staghorn Damselfish
Blue Sea Star
Still not sure which species--but they have a nasty bite!
A pair of Moorish Idols
We also had a long encounter with a
BLACK GIANT SQUIRREL at the swimming pool, which provided the photo op I missed while birding earlier in the week. And the
FRUIT BATS in the horse corrals were a constant source of amusement...
Black Giant Squirrel (more than 30" long)
Fruit Bat Species
Like so many other places we've been in the world, we underestimated how much we would enjoy West Bali--our biggest regret of the trip was only having 3 days to explore and relax in this incredible place.
Sunrise on our last morning in Bali
The next morning we were up early and loaded into a vehicle for the 4-hour drive back across the island to Denpasar and the airport. Our next stop was Labuan Bajo, Flores--the jumping off point for Komodo National Park!
Photos from These Days
Also Includes everything before West Bali
Checklists from These Days
Menjangan Resort Owling
Menjangan Resort/West Bali Tower and Road
Salt Pans (Banyu Wedang)
Bali Barat Pitta Hide
Blimbingsari Rainforest (Kingfisher spot)
Blimbingsari Rainforest
Treeswift and Woodswallow Spot
Pura Tirtha Segara Rupek
Gilimanuk - Harbor
Gilimanuk - Savanna
Tegal Bunder - Forest
Tegal Bunder - Parakeets
The Menjangan (9/10)
The Menjangan (9/11)
Other Posts in this Series
Indonesia Part 1: Via Hong Kong
Indonesia Part 2: Nusa Dua Lagoon
Indonesia Part 3: Sebatu and Ubud
>>Indonesia Part 4: West Bali National Park
Indonesia Part 5: Flores Endemics
Indonesia Part 6: Komodo National Park
Indonesia Part 7: Recap & LogisticsLabels: Asia, Bali, barbets, bee-eaters, doves, island, jungle, kingfishers, national park, pittas, shorebirds, snorkel